Madeleine Montabert lives in the medieval village of Crillon-le-Brave in Provence. She is the owner and chef of “Cooking in Provence”, a sophisticated small cooking school. There, in a morning, you can learn how to prepare a genuine French home-cooked meal with local produce and you get to taste it as well with your fellow chefs in training. No big crowds, just a few people in her home kitchen in a peaceful Provençal village close to Mont Ventoux, one of Lance Armstrong’s toughest challenge. Madeleine was kind enough to offer to share a recipe from one of her sample meals. So here is her “Soupe à la courge et aux châtaignes” (squash and chestnut soup).
The original recipe from “Cooking in Provence” is reprinted below with permission:
Soupe de courge et châtaignes:
1 kg de courge, 150 g de châtaignes épluchées (l’utilisation de châtaignes pelées surgelées est un gain de temps appréciable si vous êtes pressés !), 12 cl de crème épaisse, ¾ litre d’eau, ¼ litre de lait, ciboulette, noix de muscade, sel, poivre.
- Rincer et ôter toute trace de terre de la tranche de courge. Oter les filaments et pépins, puis l’éplucher.
- Couper la chair de la courge en dés (dés de taille égale pour qu’ils aient tous le même temps de cuisson). Placer les dans une casserole.
- Ajouter les châtaignes pelées, l’eau, le lait, et le sel. Porter à ébullition puis réduire le feu. Remuer de temps à autre pendant la cuisson (environ 30 mn) jusqu’à ce que les dés de courges soient tendres et se laissent facilement transpercer par les dents d’une fourchette.
- Mixer le tout (avec un robot plongeur) jusqu’à une consistence crémeuse.
- Juste avant de servir, remettre la casserole sur feu doux, ajouter la crème, le poivre et la noix de muscade.
- Goûter et rectifier l’assaisonnement. Servir chaud parsemé de ciboulette hachée.
In case this is chinese to you or French, here is what I did. I had to make a few changes, as the vegetables are not quite the same here. We don’t have “potiron”, the squash that goes into the soup. Pumpkin would not work, it is a different species with different taste and texture. After Halloween though, you can use a large pumpkin as a soup tureen, great way to recycle and show off with presentation.
First, I boiled the fresh chestnuts in water for nearly 30 minutes and then peeled the shells and the brown skins off. This is much easier to do if you cut a small piece of the shell before cooking with a sharp knife. Then, I peeled the squash with a potato peeler (a mix of butternut, carnival and kabocha), cleaned it and boiled 1 kg in one liter of chicken broth with 2 cloves of garlic. I added 1 cup of milk, waited for the boil again and pureed everything together (squash, 3/4 cup chestnut, broth). Back to the pot on low with 1/2 cup of cream or sour cream, salt and fresh ground pepper, and grated nutmeg if you like it! I served this soup inside a hollowed pumpkin. On the side, I offered garlic croutons, grated cheese and of course, the chopped chives! The soup turned out to be very smooth and creamy with a lovely chestnut after-taste.
For more information on “Cooking in Provence” go to : www.cookinginprovence.fr
Crillon-le-Brave is a wonderful village close to the Ventoux and Chateau-Neuf du Pape vineyards. It is a great area for cycling, browsing antiques, lingering at cafés, tasting olive oil and to enjoy all the foods of Provence.
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There is a lot of confusion with pumpkin species.
From what I understand the Jack o lantern is cucurbita pepo (pumpkin or citrouille), while Hubbard, kabocha, butternut etc… are maxima or those we call squash (the French, courge).
Cinderella definitely a maxima, close to the common species grown in France, or “potiron”.
I have bought some seeds when I was in France, and Richard and I are going to grow some Potiron next year!
In the meantime, Dan’s the man, I will try to drive out there soon.
I bought a pumpkin at Dan’s Farm that may be what you are looking for. It is a French pumpkin – here is some info from a website that sells the seeds: “The Pumpkin French Cinderella, ‘Cucurbita maxima’, is a beautiful French antique heirloom with vibrant mahogany-orange skin that transformed into a coach for Cinderella. The French Cinderella is also called Rouge Vif D’etampes. The Cinderella is a very striking pumpkin with deep ridges and is large sized, up to 15-20 pounds. This pumpkin looks good even if you do not carve it. The flesh is excellent eaten as a winter squash. Tell your kids you are going to grow Cinderella’s carriage!”